As you may have deduced by now, I finished my fourth Camino in Santiago last Thursday. After more than a million steps, I was happy to arrive in the plaza in front of the cathedral once again. My lovely wife flew in to join me and we spent a few days enjoying Galician food and our reunion.
My last week on the trail was under overcast and cool but dry skies, so nothing to complain about. Sunrise became later each day, so several mornings required that I set out by headlamp for the first hour.
After my rest day in Portomarin, I stopped at Ligonde, Melide, Arzua, and O Pedrouzo before my final walk to Santiago. There were many more pilgrims sharing the trail with me this year. I was already being accorded some respect by many of them just for having started in St. Jean.
As I write this we’re in Barcelona, unwinding and visiting friends, and we’ll be taking the train back to Paris tomorrow.
We had coffee this morning at Elsa y Fred, the scene of some “Camino magic” after my first walk in 2019 when two pilgrims I met repeatedly on the trail unexpectedly walked into the bar, three weeks and 800 miles later (I’m looking at you, Denise and Aileen).
You may know that there have been large protests, with tent encampments, in major Spain cities over affordable housing. The Santiago Cathedral shares a plaza with the local town council HQ, and upon arrival there I discovered a small tent encampment of protesters. During our stay we witnessed several protest marches and gatherings, all of which were peaceful and well-organized.
Several of you have inquired about the recent riots in Paris. Thanks for your concern. We have not been there and have, so far, been unaffected. Our corner of the 15th Arrondissement is pretty far from where the violence happened. More protests are planned in the coming weeks, so we shall see what happens.
The French love to exercise their democratic rights to protest and the press loves to showcase the violent minority. No doubt the Fifth Republic will survive this.
In my post-Camino brain, I’m shifting back to a normal daily schedule and wrestling with re-entering the complicated, modern world. For now I will be glad to store my hiking gear, to wear some different clothes, and to let go of the Camino. At this point, I think it’s unlikely I’ll do it again but the world is full of other interesting trails. I’ll keep you posted.
In the meantime, thanks again for coming along and for your encouragement. Until next time, cheers!
Well done you. We have been thinking of you guys. time for a well earned rest.