I’m writing from Ponferada, a nice, large city with a famous castle, which is the scene of a rest day for me. And one that’s very needed!
Since my last post and my departure from Leon, I’ve been through Villadangos del Paramo, Hospital del Orbigo, Astorga, Rabanal del Camino, and El Acebo. The Cafe Los Angeles, in Hospital, which I had looked forward to for its great cafe and wonderful pilgrim’s menu lunch, was sadly permanently closed. The proprietor put in his 25 years and retired, and no one has bought the place to reopen it.
Coming out of there, I had a choice to go 10 unbroken kms along the highway (very boring) or take a slightly longer route through farm fields and two small towns. I chose the latter and it was a bad idea. I know I’ve taken it before but I’d forgotten it how bad it is, Not only were the rocky farm roads awful, but the Camino wound around hilltops, with lots of ascents and decents, and halfway through it started to rain. My arrival in Astorga was wet, soggy, and I managed to find just the right spot in my new sandals that produced a blister. That’s the Camino for you.
I also forgot that the route out of El Acebo to Molinaseca features some god awful long descents down rock-strewn paths, including clambering over sheets of eroded slate and granite. Oy! The knees and legs took a beating, which I’m still feeling today. Yep, that’s the Camino.
I met two ladies at breakfast in El Acebo, Desiree from Madrid and Carolina from San Antonio (hello, ladies) and we walked together for part of the morning. Desiree is doing the Camino in multi-year stretches (as many working Spaniards do) and ended her walk for this year here in Ponferada. Carolina, a retiree, is going the whole way to Santiago, so we may meet again.
The weather has turned ugly and the forecast is for rain for the next week or so, usually at night with little chance of it in the prime morning walking hours. Nonetheless, wet and muddy paths are no treat.
The end of the traditional Camino season is approaching and I’m seeing evidence of cafe- and hotel-owner fatigue. Burnt out lights, broken fixtures, etc. abound. Most of these places will be closed for 4-5 months during the winter and I guess repairs are being deferred to just before next season.
I have 13 days to Santiago, including a rest day in Portomarin. Time for the big personal revelations to appear, but so far I got nothing. So it goes. My lovely wife will be joining me in Santiago and seeing her is always a revelation.
I did ship my absentee ballot to the U.S. and DHL (aka “Day and a Half Late”) says it was delivered, so I’m very glad to have done my duty as a U.S. citizen. Are you getting ready to do yours?
I’m off to Cacabelos tomorrow morning and hoping for good lodging and no rain on the way. Thanks for coming along and for all your encouragement. Cheers!
