Day 43 – To Airexe

Portomarin to Airexe – 18 Kms, 23,488 steps

I was amazed when I opened my blinds this morning to find that it was not raining, and there wasn’t even any wet pavement to be seen. So much for the forecast! I quickly redressed for a dry, even warmish start, and headed out with the pilgrim horde at 8:00 AM, 35-minutes before sunrise. No need to worry about seeing in the the dark: the line of pilgrims was continuous from my hotel, through town, across a bridge, and up into the hills.

It was quite pleasant for about an hour, then just as I stopped at a handy cafe, it started to rain. I was able to put on my poncho under cover without hurrying, which was fortunate.

It rained pretty steadily for an hour, drizzled for another hour, and then was damp and misty. Nonetheless, I got the full steam bath effect under my poncho and was completely soaked. However, the pilgrim horde was reduced and spread out, my feet were dry, and the hiking wasn’t too bad. I’m very glad it’s over now but it could have been worse.

What a wide variety for rain gear I saw! Everything from the expensive over-the-pack ponchos like mine to trash bags. Some pilgrims could have been in real peril if it had rained and turned colder. Of course, maybe they planned to call a taxi in that case. I admit the idea came to my mind this morning at least once.

I’m amazed at how inconsiderate pilgrims can be. From those who stop right in the middle of the path to consult their cell phones, to those who wear their dripping wet rain gear right into a bar or cafe, they remind me of one of my mother’s favorite questions: “Were you brought up in a barn?”

Airexe is nothing more than a bend in the road, with an albergue and pension, and a bar. But it’s just the right distance between Portomarin and my destination tomorrow, Melide. I stayed at the pension here in 2019, so a reprise was good strategy. Since then, the pension has made improvements including adding vastly better WiFi.

Tomorrow is my last long walk, 22 Kms to Melide. It’s generally downhill and a pleasant walk. The weather (if the forecast is to be believed) will be cloudy but dry. Only four more days until I reach Santiago!