Week 3: To Fromista

Church of San Martin, Fromista

My Camino continues, as does the cooler weather. This past week has seen stops in Belorado, Villafrance Montes de Oca, Atapuerca, Burgos, Hornillos de Camino, Castrojeriz, and Fromista.

Some places and buildings I remember clearly from previous years, but others take me quite by surprise. And so I get the comfort of familiarity and also the fun of unexpected recognition. I had a day off in Fromista but it’s not something I would willingly repeat. There is nothing to do in town and my accommodations were boring and without the company of fellow pilgrims.


The shoe intervention I envisioned in Burgos was not to be; not many stores stock size 14 in Europe. I have tended my blisters with care and stayed off my feet when possible, and they’ve healed some. I’m trying out a pair of Injinji “toe socks”. We’ll have to see what Week 4 brings.

(Frozen) paella and pizza menus

One company has cornered the market on cheap paella and pizza in cafes and taverns all across Spain. Places that sign up are given glossy menus (shown above), posters, and sidewalk signs. I tried the pizza (very average) and a friend tried the seafood and black squid ink paella (pronounced it “bland”). But the portions are generous and the cost is low, so it’s not a total loss. It’s the ubiquitous presence of these products across Spain that fascinates me. Someone did a great sales and marketing job.

Speaking of food, I’ve broken bread this past week with pilgrims from Australia, Germany, South Korea, Taiwan, and China. And with a retired firefighter from Houston, who despite being a Texan turned out to be be surprisingly liberal. It’s impressive that English is so widely, and well, spoken around the world.

The coming week will see the end of The Meseta, the vast high plateau I’ve been crossing all week, which will take me into the big city of Leon. I’ll have a rest day in a luxury hotel room with a bathtub there! Time for a good, therapeutic soak.

Thanks for joining me on this trek, and for your comments and support. Cheers!

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