Week 2 – To Santo Domingo de la Calzada

If my first week on the Camino was marked with unexpected rain, the second week has been dry but with chilly starts. For example, it was 39 F one day and I had to go buy a fleece jacket and layer all my clothes on just to stay warm. Most days have warmed up nicely into the 60s eventually but this spell of cool weather is unexpected. That said, it’s nicer than struggling with a blasting sun and 95-degree heat.

The last week has taken me through Puente la Reina, Estella, Los Arcos, Viana, Navarrete, Najera, and Santo Domingo. I’ve met a lot of interesting people, eaten some good and some pretty awful meals, and developed some completely unexpected foot blisters. So everything has not gone to plan.

At this point in the Camino, it’s not uncommon to see a lot of pilgrims dealing with physical issues. And there are plenty of knee braces, taped ankles, and hobbling pilgrims to be seen. I’m in the latter group but my limp really appears only at the end of the day, not on the trail. Heavy doses of determination, ibuprofen, and Tylenol are being deployed. I’ll be in the larger city of Burgos in two days and a visit to the outdoor gear shop for new shoes may be in the cards. And before you ask, yes, I walked almost 50 miles in my current Keen hiking boots during training, so they were properly broken in. And I stop each day at the halfway point to change socks. All this worked splendidly during my last Camino, so why I’m having problems now is a mystery.

I have been surprised to find out, in conversations, just how many other pilgrims have packed their boots away and bought new “trail runners” or “hiking sandals” in the last week.

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As I may have already said, there are a lot of pilgrims out here this year. I don’t know if it’s pent up post-COVID demand, or just the new “overtourism” at work, but it’s busy. Must be a good thing for the Spanish economy, but it sometimes makes it hard to find a table or a bed.

In one of those nice Camino moments, I just ran into Jo, from Australia, in the bar here. She was one of the four pilgrims I met at dinner on my first night in Saint Jean Pied-de-Port, and have not seen since. It was fun to hear how her last two weeks have been, though not the part where she hurt her ankle. This interweaving of people on the Camino is one of the best parts of the Camino experience.

I’ve settled down into the Camino routine, and hopefully will resolve my foot issues in the coming days. I’m also waiting for my absentee ballot to appear in my email Inbox so I can complete it and send it in. There’s been a big, non-partisan push through U.S. embassies and other organizations to get Americans overseas to vote this year.

And, hopefully, it will warm up a bit out here; some Fall weather would be appreciated. With that I’ll say thanks for the comments and support, and see you next time. Cheers.